From Aleppo to Hama where we stop to take pictures of the 14th -15th century norias: giant wooden water wheels – some with a diameter of 21m (23ft to 69ft) used to lift water up to the aqueducts which carry it off to the fields for irrigation.
In a park I sit down on a low wall to adjust a setting on my camera when 6 pairs of shoes came to a standstill in front of me. I look up into the friendly faces of 2 young, beautiful girls and a young man. “What’s your name?” asks one of the girls. I told her and she immediately introduces herself, her sister and sister’s fiancée. Suria’s sister proudly shows me her wedding ring and between my no-Arabic and Suria’s very limited English I understand that the couple are getting married in the summer; all 3 of them are students in 3 different towns; they have student holidays until next week. I tell them we are from Africa and call Willie, who looks like Crocodile Dundee in New York with his floppy leather hat; introduce him and we take pictures with one another. They tell me I am beautiful and I tell them how beautiful they are. Suria’s sister invites us to come and visit them in the country. We say goodbye and they leave with the now familiar greeting, “Welcome to Syria.” A brief, but sweet and unforgettable encounter.
From Hama, along the Libanese border to Crac du Chevalier: a spectacular and almost perfectly preserved Crusader Castle. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the castle is considered a pinnacle of medieval military architecture. The castle’s mighty defenses were never breached, even though it was under siege many times. It finally fell as result of trickery. Under siege by Mameluke Muslims, a letter was sent supposedly form the Crusader commander in Tripoli, advising the knights to surrender. The 300 knights, with a 5 year supply of provisions, did as they were told only to discover it was forgery!
As we drive into the campsite we see a Land Cruiser with a German Lö license plate which means the owners are from the same area where we’ve stayed. How small can the world be? We visit the castle, perched on a hill at an altitude of 750m which allows for spectacular views of the surrounding area and valley. Author Paul Theroux described Crac as the epitome of the dream castle of childhood fantasies: complete with immense sloping walls, a moat, courtyard, staircases, baths, hidden alleys, look-out towers, chapel (now converted to a mosque) – endless… if you are an explorer.
As we drive into the campsite we see a Land Cruiser with a German Lö license plate which means the owners are from the same area where we’ve stayed. How small can the world be? We visit the castle, perched on a hill at an altitude of 750m which allows for spectacular views of the surrounding area and valley. Author Paul Theroux described Crac as the epitome of the dream castle of childhood fantasies: complete with immense sloping walls, a moat, courtyard, staircases, baths, hidden alleys, look-out towers, chapel (now converted to a mosque) – endless… if you are an explorer.
We meet our German friends when we return to the campsite. On their way back to Germany after almost 2 years of traveling to South Africa through West Africa and back through East Africa. We, of course, had 1000 of questions about safety, campsites, border crossings, problems, etc. They had valuable advice and travel tips for us and it was very reassuring and comforting to talk to such seasoned travelers. While talking another 2 4x4’s appear. It turns out to be a group of 5 from England on their way to South Africa traveling the same route as us. What amazing coincidence? We talked till late in the night, looked at each other’s equipment, shared questions and concerns and picked our German friends’ brains even more. Shared experiences bring an immediate camaraderie and closeness that is difficult to explain. Sammie was happy for the company and added several more friends to his already long list.
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