27 April, Wednesday Lalibela
Lalibela…often referred to as Africa’s Petra. The first time I’ve heard the name was more than a year ago when Hugo told me about the history of Lalibela. Then, already, my appetite was whetted and I became more intrigued with it the further I read about it. So, this is one of the few, if not the first occasion that I go with an expectation which I know is not good. Will I be disappointed or not? I have no idea.
We wake up with chanting and praying of the Orthodox priests in the nearby monasteries. The entrance gate is a 10 minute walk from the hotel. On our way I meet Martha who invites us for coffee at her restaurant and I promise her that we will come later in the day. We decide to take a guide as this is one of the most significant historical sites we will visit. We’ve come this far and to not know what you are looking at or learn subtle detail not found in books will be sad. It is not a mistake. Our guide, Daniel, speaks good English and is very knowledgeable. We hang onto his every word and enter into a world that we never even knew existed. We see sights that halt your thoughts whilst your eyes hang on to something you could not imagine in your wildest dreams.
King Lalibela, devoted and deeply religious, reigned during the 12th -13th century. He fled to Jerusalem after a suicide attempt on his life by his half-brother. Inspired by the temples, churches and religious sites during his visit, he vowed to build an Ethiopian holy city when he returned. On his return to Ethiopia and after becoming king, Lalibela started his incredible building project. With exceptional masonry skills stone churches were hewn out of and into the rocky hills. 3 different building styles were used: monolithic – the entire church was cut out of the surrounding rock; semi-monolithic: one side of the church is still attached to the rock; rock church: church was carved into the rock. Several legends surround the actual building process – how was this done? Experts have estimated that it would have taken 40,000 people to carve out these churches over 50+ years should they have worked day and night. According tradition the churches were built in the short period of 23 years, during the day by locals and by night angels took over.
Two groups of churches exist: the earthly Jerusalem which consists of 6 churches, and the heavenly Jerusalem, consisting of 5 churches.
The first church, Bet Medhane Alem, (Savior of the World) is covered by unsightly UNESCO scaffolding and roofing to protect the ancient church from further damage by rain and wind. Once inside the dimly lit building one understands why this protection is necessitated. 34 large pillars surround the building. Each corner has 3 columns that are joined, resembling the Trinity. Once inside, it seems as if everything you look at has some kind of symbolic explanation. In one corner of the vaulted ceiling building there are 3 open graves prepared symbolically for Abraham, Isaac and Jacob. Different crosses, Greek, Maltese, Coptic, Orthodox, Christian can be seen in different places. Barely visible murals depicting different Biblical scenes cover the walls. Each church is shaped into a cross; in the back is the choir; left of the central leg of the cross is the worship area for men, to the right the women; and then the closed off Holy of Holies where a replica of the Ark of the Covenant is kept. Only the priest is allowed to enter the Holies 1x/year.
Tunnels connect 3 churches to the Savior of the World church: the church of the virgin, Mary; Bet Meskel and Bet Danaghel. Another tunnel leads us to the twin churches of Golgotha and Church of Michael. Crosses, altars, carvings of winged creatures, prayer sticks, murals can be found in every church – each representing some important figure, ritual or belief in the Orthodox Church.
We walk to an overlook and finally are able to see what is described as the masterpiece of Lalibela – the Bet Giyorgis church – monolithic – a 3 story, square church with a Greek cross, cut out of the rock ceiling. The church represents the Ark and to reach it Daniel leads us down an open tunnel until we reach the courtyard. Daniel points out Mount Ararat to us and I take a picture of Hugo at the top of it!
We cross the River Jordan on our journey into the heavenly city. From a church, representing hell, we pass through a pitch dark tunnel which represents the process of purgatory until we finally reach Immanuel Church – God with us – heaven!
What we have just seen is almost too much for the moment and all of us need time to process the amazing wonder of the rock hewn churches of Lalibela.
Click Play:
Lalibela…often referred to as Africa’s Petra. The first time I’ve heard the name was more than a year ago when Hugo told me about the history of Lalibela. Then, already, my appetite was whetted and I became more intrigued with it the further I read about it. So, this is one of the few, if not the first occasion that I go with an expectation which I know is not good. Will I be disappointed or not? I have no idea.
We wake up with chanting and praying of the Orthodox priests in the nearby monasteries. The entrance gate is a 10 minute walk from the hotel. On our way I meet Martha who invites us for coffee at her restaurant and I promise her that we will come later in the day. We decide to take a guide as this is one of the most significant historical sites we will visit. We’ve come this far and to not know what you are looking at or learn subtle detail not found in books will be sad. It is not a mistake. Our guide, Daniel, speaks good English and is very knowledgeable. We hang onto his every word and enter into a world that we never even knew existed. We see sights that halt your thoughts whilst your eyes hang on to something you could not imagine in your wildest dreams.
King Lalibela, devoted and deeply religious, reigned during the 12th -13th century. He fled to Jerusalem after a suicide attempt on his life by his half-brother. Inspired by the temples, churches and religious sites during his visit, he vowed to build an Ethiopian holy city when he returned. On his return to Ethiopia and after becoming king, Lalibela started his incredible building project. With exceptional masonry skills stone churches were hewn out of and into the rocky hills. 3 different building styles were used: monolithic – the entire church was cut out of the surrounding rock; semi-monolithic: one side of the church is still attached to the rock; rock church: church was carved into the rock. Several legends surround the actual building process – how was this done? Experts have estimated that it would have taken 40,000 people to carve out these churches over 50+ years should they have worked day and night. According tradition the churches were built in the short period of 23 years, during the day by locals and by night angels took over.
Two groups of churches exist: the earthly Jerusalem which consists of 6 churches, and the heavenly Jerusalem, consisting of 5 churches.
The first church, Bet Medhane Alem, (Savior of the World) is covered by unsightly UNESCO scaffolding and roofing to protect the ancient church from further damage by rain and wind. Once inside the dimly lit building one understands why this protection is necessitated. 34 large pillars surround the building. Each corner has 3 columns that are joined, resembling the Trinity. Once inside, it seems as if everything you look at has some kind of symbolic explanation. In one corner of the vaulted ceiling building there are 3 open graves prepared symbolically for Abraham, Isaac and Jacob. Different crosses, Greek, Maltese, Coptic, Orthodox, Christian can be seen in different places. Barely visible murals depicting different Biblical scenes cover the walls. Each church is shaped into a cross; in the back is the choir; left of the central leg of the cross is the worship area for men, to the right the women; and then the closed off Holy of Holies where a replica of the Ark of the Covenant is kept. Only the priest is allowed to enter the Holies 1x/year.
Tunnels connect 3 churches to the Savior of the World church: the church of the virgin, Mary; Bet Meskel and Bet Danaghel. Another tunnel leads us to the twin churches of Golgotha and Church of Michael. Crosses, altars, carvings of winged creatures, prayer sticks, murals can be found in every church – each representing some important figure, ritual or belief in the Orthodox Church.
We walk to an overlook and finally are able to see what is described as the masterpiece of Lalibela – the Bet Giyorgis church – monolithic – a 3 story, square church with a Greek cross, cut out of the rock ceiling. The church represents the Ark and to reach it Daniel leads us down an open tunnel until we reach the courtyard. Daniel points out Mount Ararat to us and I take a picture of Hugo at the top of it!
We cross the River Jordan on our journey into the heavenly city. From a church, representing hell, we pass through a pitch dark tunnel which represents the process of purgatory until we finally reach Immanuel Church – God with us – heaven!
What we have just seen is almost too much for the moment and all of us need time to process the amazing wonder of the rock hewn churches of Lalibela.
Click Play:
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