We wake up with a strong wind blowing and it takes acrobatics to pack the car. Relieved to be out of the wind we sardined back into the car and drive to the Dead Sea.
I’ve always been fascinated when I heard stories about swimming in the Dead Sea and had no idea what to expect. An aquamarine body of water in a white crystalized salt frame as far as the eye can see. Will, Hugo and Andrej had boy plans so they quickly disappeared around a bend to be out of sight! Willie, Sammie and I followed at a slower pace and by the time we reached the water the 3 were already bobbing like small rubber ducks.
The rocks and pebbles 1-2 metres away from the water’s edge are smothered by white, hard salt crystals. The water is surprisingly warmer than expected and once immersed I felt not 100% in control of my body. It developed a saltwater life of its own! It is almost impossible to swim and it takes effort to keep your legs and arms under the water – a hidden force keeps on pushing it up to the surface. I surrender and do what I’ve heard of for years – lie, slightly submersed in or rather on the water – thus float with no effort at all.
Sammie became salty and then very sad…he itched, licked himself, itched more and did not know what to do with himself.
I had to read more about the Dead Sea and discovered a few interesting facts. It is almost 9 times more salty than the sea and no animal can survive in it, hence the name, except...(Hugo corrected me) for extremophiles, an archaebacteria. The Dead Sea has become a major health resort, because of the health benefits for people with skin diseases, respiratory problems and allergies.
We are not near fresh water and therefore could not rinse off– soon we enter a state of preservation - becoming dried herrings – salt in your mouth, salt in your hair, salt everywhere…! Our towels, clothes, t-shirts become stiff as boards – positioned correctly you can make your towel stand guard beside your bed. An experience that we will savor for a long time.
The rocks and pebbles 1-2 metres away from the water’s edge are smothered by white, hard salt crystals. The water is surprisingly warmer than expected and once immersed I felt not 100% in control of my body. It developed a saltwater life of its own! It is almost impossible to swim and it takes effort to keep your legs and arms under the water – a hidden force keeps on pushing it up to the surface. I surrender and do what I’ve heard of for years – lie, slightly submersed in or rather on the water – thus float with no effort at all.
Sammie became salty and then very sad…he itched, licked himself, itched more and did not know what to do with himself.
I had to read more about the Dead Sea and discovered a few interesting facts. It is almost 9 times more salty than the sea and no animal can survive in it, hence the name, except...(Hugo corrected me) for extremophiles, an archaebacteria. The Dead Sea has become a major health resort, because of the health benefits for people with skin diseases, respiratory problems and allergies.
We are not near fresh water and therefore could not rinse off– soon we enter a state of preservation - becoming dried herrings – salt in your mouth, salt in your hair, salt everywhere…! Our towels, clothes, t-shirts become stiff as boards – positioned correctly you can make your towel stand guard beside your bed. An experience that we will savor for a long time.
We follow the Dead Sea for 50+km and then according to our GPS – as culturally challenged as us – we had to turn left on a dirt track heading straight into the desert. In the distance a mountain range appears and soon we are climbing, curving, trapeze higher, higher and higher. This should be the road to Petra and we begin to wonder if we are on the right road. We stop to ask and yes, it is? Onward – we leave the Dead Sea, the desert, life on earth behind as we enter the upper stratosphere. We have to stop several times, because the transmission gearbox starts to overheat. Just as we think we are at the top, the road snakes up further.
Finally… and we enter a different world as soon as we start our descent – Picnic-barbecue Land. There are people, cars, trucks, horses, donkeys and camels everywhere. The air is saturated with mouth-watering smells coming from small barbecue fires. Families sit on carpets or rugs in the shadow of trees or overhanging cliffs, children are playing ball and young people, like rock marmoths, sit on high outlooks with music blaring over the landscape. Fascinated with the all this activity we finally realize it is Friday - Muslim Sunday! It is wonderful to watch how families gather together to relax and enjoy their rest day.
We are starving when we finally reach the small village before Petra and we stop at one of the few café’s that is open. We meet 2 friendly men – Bedouin twins who buy us tea as we wait for our 50 cent falafel sandwich. We gulp it down and order 5 more since it is so reasonable.
Next stop is the visitor center at Petra where Willie finds out what the prices of tickets are and opening hours. Sunset is fast approaching and we are ready to pitch camp. Where though, with the mountains covered with picnickers? We find a spot and are warmly greeted by 2 men around a fire with the familiar words, “Welcome in Jordan”
Next stop is the visitor center at Petra where Willie finds out what the prices of tickets are and opening hours. Sunset is fast approaching and we are ready to pitch camp. Where though, with the mountains covered with picnickers? We find a spot and are warmly greeted by 2 men around a fire with the familiar words, “Welcome in Jordan”
We unload, the boys pitch their tent and Willie and I climb up a rock to watch the sunset. The next moment the boys inform us that they are leaving? They are taking their sleeping bags and they are going to sleep on top of the mountain. They have to run though, because it was getting dark quickly. It was the funniest picture watching the 3 run as fast as they can up the mountain. The Bedouin men’s eyes are glued on them until they disappeared out of sight. They reminded me of Lot and his wife running away from Sodom and Gomorra and suddenly they were gone!
Willie and I download our photos and enjoy a relaxing evening. As we are getting ready to go to bed we hear familiar voices and yes, the boys are back! There mountain sleepover is over, but excitement not. The Bedouin neighbors come over and invite them for tea. They talk and laugh till late in the night, sit around the fire for a while and crawl into their tent. 2 hours later the night’s silence is broken by the Bedouin men calling for Will! “Will, we want Will, come quickly Will.” The boys drag themselves out of the tent for a follow-up visit that lasted, fortunately not too long! An eventful and interesting day!
We will remember our campsite as the Bedouin Camp.
Willie and I download our photos and enjoy a relaxing evening. As we are getting ready to go to bed we hear familiar voices and yes, the boys are back! There mountain sleepover is over, but excitement not. The Bedouin neighbors come over and invite them for tea. They talk and laugh till late in the night, sit around the fire for a while and crawl into their tent. 2 hours later the night’s silence is broken by the Bedouin men calling for Will! “Will, we want Will, come quickly Will.” The boys drag themselves out of the tent for a follow-up visit that lasted, fortunately not too long! An eventful and interesting day!
We will remember our campsite as the Bedouin Camp.
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